Chimney Repairs. Costs, How-To, and Other Questions Answered.

Posted on February 7, 2012 by admin

Chimney repair questions answered, by a Saint Louis Tuckpointing Company.

OVERVIEW

One of the most common tuck-pointing repairs needed in the St. Louis area is Chimney tuck-pointing. Water comes in at the chimney on the roof or somewhere along the chimney breast, making it’s way to your walls or ceiling.

Chimneys are often the most weather exposed part of any home. They sit higher than any other part of the house getting every bit of every part of weather from excessive rain, snow, and ice, to excessive sun and wind. These all play a major role in the rapid deterioration of any chimney.

What chimney damage does.

When water enters and makes it’s way through the brick at your chimney, it can cause costly damages to your paint, drywall/plaster and trim in the area being saturated. Most people do not even realize their chimney is in need of tuckpointing until they notice the water entry.

Avoiding the Damages.

You can avoid the expensive damages by keeping up on the maintenance of your brick or stone chimney. Once a year, do a visual inspection of the chimney, from the roof if possible. If you notice failing mortar joints(Cracks, small holes in the mortar) It’s time to have  the chimney tuckpointed. If the damage is worse (Many missing mortar joints, deep holes/cracks and broken brick) you may already have water entering and not know it. Get any necessary chimney repairs done Before the water makes it way through your brick causing further damage.

How the chimney is repaired.

More often than not, we recommend a complete overhaul on the chimney when doing chimney repair work. Steps listed below.

  • We tuck-point the entire chimney solid (usually from the roof line up, sometimes more/less).
  • Repair/replace missing, loose & deteriorated brick.
  • Repair/replace the chimney cap, & install bird cage on flue if needed.
  • Caulk the flashing around the chimney.
  • And Finally, Apply masonry cleaner and sealer to leave your chimney looking and performing like new again.

Each chimney has it’s own unique problems, which can be assessed by giving us a call for a free estimate. Schedule a meeting with us and we will outline your specific needs to get everything back in tip-top shape.

What Does Chimney Repair Cost?

Chimney repair cost varies by type of chimney including (material (usually brick or stone) height, ease of access and scope of work.)

Your average 1 story house with a brick chimney job is going to range from $300-$1000 for a complete overhaul, depending mostly on size and ease of access.

A chimney on 2-3 story houses can sometimes be extremely hard to get to depending on the pitch of the roof, obstacle(s) around set up area and height/size of chimney. Prices vary even more for these types of jobs ranging anywhere from $400-$2000+, again depending on factors listed above.

We’ve worked on every type of chimney job the greater St. Louis area has to offer, whether it be brick or stone, 1-15 stories high, small and large projects alike. If there’s a chimney repair problem you need help with, give us a call, we would be glad to help.

–Jake

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Tuckpointing Coupons for St. Louis Area (Expire 2012)

Posted on February 3, 2012 by admin

Check out our offers page for our 2012 coupons. (Coupons for chimney repair, tuckpointing, brick repair, water proofing, foundation repair and Senior Citizen Discounts in the St. Louis area.)

We’re lining up our spring schedule now! Get your estimate soon to take advantage of these great deals on tuckpointing and brick repair. We’re always around, either a click or call away.

http://www.atekbuilding.com/contact-us.php

314-629-2283

–Jake

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What sets Atek aside from other St. Louis Tuckpointing Companies?

Posted on February 1, 2012 by admin

What makes Atek different from any other Saint Louis masonry company?

A detailed list:

  • Communication
    • First assessing what the customer wants or needs done is the most important aspect of the business-customer relationship. If we try to sell you something you don’t want or need, we’re going to lose your business.
    • We strive to meet the needs of the customer and take every step necessary from understanding the customer’s problem, special needs as well as their budget.
    • Keeping in touch with the customer from the start of the project to completion is vital. Here at Atek, the owners are part of the crew and are on site to address any questions or concerns throughout the process.
    • After job completion, a full walk around the entire project scope is done with each customer to ensure total satisfaction.
  • Quality Workmanship
    • The owners, Jake and Josh Thompson are 2nd generation masons and have been involved in the masonry field for decades of combined experience. If there is a problem you have, more than likely, one of the two have encountered it before.
    • We like what we do. We enjoy working in the masonry field. We love bringing new life back into old dilapidated brick and stone work.
    • You’ll hear many masons say, the best tuckpointing jobs go unnoticed. What this means is, If a tuckpointing job is done properly, no one would know it was done at all. The goal is to make the wall appear new, like it was when originally built. A detailed cleaning of the work area after project completion is also what you’ll get with Atek.
  • Affordability
    • Working on a budget? There’s usually more than one way to address a problem. We offer you the best and longest lasting solution to most comfortably fit your budget. Want your whole house tuckpointed, but cannot afford it? We can address one or two sides a year for you.
    • Reduced Overhead = Competitive Pricing.
      • No huge advertising costs. Most of our advertising is word-of-mouth. Our customers tell their friends and so on and so forth. All other advertising is done by the owners including internet advertising.
      • No salesman to get a cut. The owners perform the sales and complete the work and pass savings on to you.
  • 5 Year Warranty on Solid Tuckpointing work
    • As stated is previous blogs here at Atek, a solid tuckpointing job by Atek will last between 25-30 years. We offer one of the longest warranties in our trade. Our warranty for solid work includes labor and material for failure of workmanship. This includes waranties against cracks, holes in the mortar and water entry in any area tuckpointed solid.
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How long does tuckpointing last?

Posted on January 31, 2012 by admin

We’re going to keep this short and sweet… A solid tuckpointing job, as offered by Atek, will last 25-30 years with our St. Louis weather.

When tuckpointing doesn’t last so long we can point our finger in a few directions.

First, would be the contractor who completed the last job. They may have failed to clean the joints properly before putting in new mortar, or didn’t remove the old joints at all. (We call these guys ‘skimmers’. A weak mortar mix might have been used or the mortar joints may have not been properly filled. The work may have been completed out of season and the mortar froze before cured.

Secondly, We can attribute a lot of mortar failure to settling. Settling cracks and holes appear when the foundation of the masonry walls has shifted. Settling is more inclined to occur on soft soil where a weak foundation exists. Earthquakes, even very minor ones, can cause settling of a foundation.

And Finally, and least likely, but still possible… Unusual stress on the brick/block wall will cause rapid mortar failure. Examples? Maybe one wall of your house is constantly being soaked by a nearby sprinkler causing excessive water retention in the brick and mortar. Or too much weight on a specific area for too long can cause just enough movement to damage a small area, that in turn would allow water entry damaging a much larger area.

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How much does tuckpointing cost?

Posted on January 31, 2012 by admin

How much does tuckpointing cost?

You have a tuckpointing project and are wondering how much money you’re going to have to spend to solve the problem. Is there a square foot price for tuckpointing? What does it cost per square foot?

We bid all our projects by calculating time and material. There isn’t a “set square foot price” With that in mind, your looking at around $3-$6 per square foot for the first ten feet in height and $5-$10 for most anything above that. With tuckpointing, most of the cost involved will be labor and set-up. If it’s hard to get to, it’s going to take more time, labor and equipment. Chimneys are a good example of hard to get to places. The cost to tuckpoint a chimney is especially influenced by ease of access.

Additional costs can occur. When a tuckpointing project is under way, there might be additional brick work (brick repair, restoration cleaning, minor relay, etc.) involved. Applying a masonry waterproofer after project completion (highly recommended especially with St. Louis weather) will also cost a bit more.

A Helpful Tip: I’ve been approached a number of times by customers asking why my price is so low, as well as, why my price is so high. When comparing bids, the most common gap can in price can be the scope of work (how much is actually getting done). So when collecting your bids, try to compare the relative ones.

Several other factors are going to come into play when you get your quote, such as:

  • Quality and Experienced Labor
    • Are you getting an estimate from an expert or the neighborhood handyman? How long has the company/crew been in the masonry field?
    • Can the company provide pictures/references from previous work? Is the company recognized by the BBB? What’s their rating?
  • How Long the Job Will Take
    • Beyond the previously stated “ease of access” Other things to consider include how hard it will be to remove the existing mortar and is water and electric available on site.
  • Material
    • The cost of the materials to be used. Mortar, color, masonry cleaners, waterproofing material, diamond grinding blades and other consumables.
  • Additional Company Overhead
    • Advertising budget. If the company has commercials during the Superbowl and a billboard in the stadium along with it, you’re paying for it.
    • Salesmen. A lot of larger companies have full-time salesmen. They meet up with you, sell you their product and you will probably not see or hear from them again until payday. Choosing a smaller company can save you tons of money.
    • Tools and Equipment. Is the company using safe up-to-date tools and equipment? Quality tools cost more, but usually last longer and are cheaper in the long run.
    • Insurances. Does the company carry insurances. Liability, Work Comp, Even Proper automobile insurances.

The bottom line is you get what you pay for, good, bad and ugly. With Atek, you’re getting quality, experience and a job done in a timely manner at a competitive price. We’re a small Saint Louis company with a small advertising budget, where the owner is the Marketer, Salesman, and Part of the crew on site during progress of the job.

Additional Questions? Visit the Contact us page and drop us a line. We’d be glad to hear from you!

–Jake

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What is Tuckpointing?

Posted on January 31, 2012 by admin

Tuckpointing in brick restoration is the process of replacing the mortar joints between the brick.

Why? Over time water causes damage to brick and mortar and if left untreated can cause water entry, brick movement and even walls to collapse.

Tuckpointing can also be done for aesthetic reasons including changing the color of the mortar and, when combined with restoration cleaning, making an old wall look new again.

The tuckpointing process can be found here on our website. http://www.atekbuilding.com/services/tuckpointing.php

If you have any questions, shoot us an email we’re always round for help.

Thanks,

–Jake

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Why is water coming through my brick walls?

Posted on January 31, 2012 by admin

Water is the most essential element to life on Earth. It is also the most destructive natural force on earth. Water follows the most least resistant path, carving rivers, canyons, moving earth and even deteriorating your brick home.

When fall turns into winter and winter turns to spring, water freezes and then it thaws. These Freeze-Thaw cycles cause water to expand and contract throughout the days and seasons.

Brick and mortar are “breathable” materials. They naturally retain some amount of water after normal rainfall. When the retained water goes through the freeze-thaw cycles, the water expands and contracts causing deterioration over the years.

The most common deterioration is at the mortar joints, causing them to ‘pop out’  or wither to sand. When this deterioration occurs it causes holes and voids in the brick work. When holes and voids get large enough, the brick walls start to retain more and more water until water eventually finds itself at your interior wall, causing damage to paint, plaster, drywall, and anything else it will touch.

True masonry homes are built with brick(1-2 courses thick) or block back-up walls with a brick facade (the brick we see on the outside) Water can take years, sometimes decades to make its way through.

The solution to the problem? Tuckpointing. Simple enough, right? Check out my next blog to find out exactly what tuckpointing is and how to stop water entering brick.

–Jake

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Brick

Posted on June 29, 2011 by admin

Saint Louis, where water will freeze in the morning, then melt by afternoon. A location that is not really brick friendly, because of these extreme fluctuations in temperature, but many brick were used to build. Brick is a good sturdy choice for your home. You must take care of it. Whether that brick acts as just an expensive, long-lasting siding, a veneer, one brick thick, or as a true masonry home. Most older dwellings in St. Louis are three brick thick, newer ones are usually two, with a membrane and an air pocket that catches the cold or water then wicks it away.

Brick make a strong, secure dwelling. They provide insulation, collecting heat from the sun during the day, letting that heat out at night. They last a long time. Most are made from clay. St Louis has a lot of clay. Whole neighborhoods were built on clay mines. It gave on-site material and there was little to transport.

Bricklaying for dwellings have been around a long time, for thousands of years. They provide a secure habitat, and they last a long time if cared for. Personally, we have worked on brick houses that were well over a hundred years old. They were still fine houses. Yours can last that long too with proper maintenance, which is what we specialize in doing.

Let us make sure your home stays your castle for a long, long time.

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MORTAR

Posted on June 29, 2011 by admin

(three of a kind)

Sand is just very small rock. I’m sure you knew that. When mixed with cement, the cement gets hard around the sand creating a very hard material. Many parts of the world use this simple combination to make mortar to lay bricks.

Here in America, specifically St. Louis, a third ingredient is often added. It is usually masonry, but it can sometimes be lime. Those three ingredients along with the proper amount of water is all you need to make mortar. Of course there are color additives, cold additives, glues and many more things you can add. Sand, cement and masonry are the basics.

The masonry, or lime, slows down the hardening effect. It makes the mortar more pliable. It also makes it sticky. That can be good or bad. A craftsman knows the proper sticky, though opinions do vary.

These ingredients at different amounts, especially the sand, produce different shades of gray(minus any color).

A common mix for tuckpointing is two parts sand to one part cement, with the cement being equal parts of Portland cement and masonry.

For bricklaying a common mix is three parts sand to one part cement, often lime is used instead of masonry. It goes further, and it cost less.

More sand makes the mortar weaker, and for bricklaying you do not want too strong a mix.

That fact can apply to a tuckpointing mix also. Too strong a mix can actually break the faces off the brick as the joint expand.

It’s best to know all the technical facts about your brick and mortar. Or, you can leave all that tedious information to us. Be secure in the knowledge that we know!

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MORTAR COLORS – You have many options

Posted on June 29, 2011 by admin

(color me purple)

Gray, the base color, that is unless you substitute the commonly used standard Portland Cement with its brother, White Portland Cement. This White Portland Cement with lime and white Silica Sand produces, you guessed it, a white mortar.

So, your bases for mortar are gray or white, with every shade in between. This is before you add any color powder or liquid. The rainbow of that spectrum is only limited by your imagination. However, it would not be suggested to go to far away from the beaten path with fancy or unusual mortar colors. Remember, you must live with this choice a long time. Tuckpointing is an expensive task, and one you should not take too lightly.

The main choices of mortar colors besides the basic white to grays is red or black. You can have any shade of those to pick from depending on your mix.

The type of sand is very important, for that is the base of the base. You can choose Meramac Sand, Missouri Sand, Mississippi Sand, or Silica sand, to name a few. Any of these are a fine selection from a structural standpoint. They all act as aggregates that make your mix strong and durable. The rest is a mainly matter of aesthetics.

Over the years, different members of our crew have worked with many colors. There’s the Irish Catholic Church that chose green mortar. Specialty jobs have called for shades of yellow or blue. No ones seen a purple, but there may be one somewhere? The browns, chocolates, reds and blacks are way more common—less flashy too.

In our opinion, a good tuckpointing job is better used to highlight the brick or stone. It should not be the focus of the appearance of your home or building. The best jobs of tuckpointing are not readily noticed.

With few limitations to your imagination you have a wide spectrum of colors and shades of color to choose from.

Be aware there are few qualities of a given color that can have any effect on a mix . The two of the exceptions can be price and longevity.

The darker colors, blacks and browns or chocolates, have the problem of fading. Depending on where the job is, how it sits in the sun, different sides, different sections fade at different rates. Therefore your home could look two-toned or worse. It can be dark black on the front and a shade or two lighter on the back. Also, black has the other attribute that it attracts and holds more of the sun’s harmful ultraviolet rays. This deteriorates the mortar quicker. We are talking over many years here, so that should be considered.

Whatever color you select for your St. Louis home or building, if you need or want our help, we will supply that. We will help you select the appropriate color mix for the individual job.

The gist is you can pick almost any color, but it is best to choose wisely.

M. A. Thompson

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